Boulevard of Golden Memories
Day 1 Chandigarh - Srinagar - Pahalgam (672 Kms)
Our journey began at 9:00 PM from Mohali with a group consisting of Kulvinder Singh (60+), Jaswinder Sahota (50+), Navtej Singh (under 50), and Amanbir Singh (40+). The plan was to drive safely through the night and reach Srinagar by early morning. The temperature in Mohali was a pleasant 20°C as we departed.
To reach Pathankot, we had two route options: via Jalandhar or Hoshiarpur. The Hoshiarpur route is shorter but has a single-lane road, while the Jalandhar route is longer by 25 km but offers a two-way drive. Considering it was nighttime, we chose the Hoshiarpur route. We grabbed some burgers at McDonald's in Balachaur before cruising along at 100 km/h on smooth, traffic-free roads. Engaged in lively conversations and friendly banter, we soon arrived at the Lakhnpur border, where we stopped for tea around 1:00 AM.
Opting to bypass Jammu, we took the Udhampur road. Although newly constructed, it was riddled with unmarked speed breakers. At this point, we switched drivers, with Jaswinder Bhaji taking over. Back on the Jammu-Srinagar road, we made another stop at “Raiz Muslim Hotel” around 4:00 AM. Unfortunately, the food and tea there were subpar, but choices were limited at that hour.
Continuing our journey, we crossed the 9 km-long tunnel bypassing Patnitop—a stretch that was once a scenic drive but is now a quicker 90-minute shortcut. We then passed through Ramban and headed toward Qazigund, traversing another 9 km tunnel (Jawahar Tunnel). While we missed the picturesque old route, the view emerging from the tunnel was breathtaking. At 7:01 AM, we were greeted by -3°C temperatures, light fog, autumnal hues, and serene roads—a perfect setting for stunning photos.
With soothing melodies from the '60s and '70s playing, the drive felt heavenly, surrounded by fallen maple leaves and the crisp morning air. By 7:45 AM, we reached Dal Lake, where Google recommended a restaurant called Grand Boulevard. Thankfully, it was open, and we enjoyed a breakfast buffet for Rs. 600 each. The restaurant was clean, with neat washrooms—a welcome respite after the long drive.
Our plan was simple: savor breakfast, take a ferry ride on Dal Lake, and visit the gardens once they opened. The day was off to a perfect start!
We took a shikara ride on Dal Lake (though it's worth noting that the lake is not very clean). As our boat ride began, floating shops gently approached us, offering tea, coffee, pearls, wooden crafts, and other items. None of us were interested in buying, so we asked the boatman to take us to the more scenic parts of the lake. However, it's common for boatmen to steer visitors toward the inner market, hoping for commissions from sales.
The cooler temperatures made for a pleasant experience, but the market detour felt like a waste of time for us. After spending about an hour on the lake, we decided to head toward the Mughal Gardens to continue our journey.
The drive from Dal Lake to Mughal Garden is nothing short of mesmerizing. With the lake shimmering on the left, rows of majestic maple trees lining the right, smooth metal roads, and the company of friends, the journey was enchanting. Our first stop was Shalimar Garden, which is currently under maintenance and restoration. However, a stunning golden tree in the garden stole the show, radiating positivity and leaving us with unforgettable memories.
Next, we headed to Chashmeshahi, also undergoing restoration. The sight of fallen maple leaves blanketing the ground created a picturesque view. After spending a good amount of time soaking in the serene beauty, we made our way to Nishat Garden. The garden’s charming fountains and lush greenery provided the perfect setting for relaxation and photography.
Later, we visited Lal Chowk, which has undergone a significant transformation. The once-familiar space has been completely revamped, now boasting modern infrastructure, a range of brand outlets, and a beautifully reconstructed square that surprised us with its vibrance.
With our booking at Heevan Hotel in Pahalgam, it was time to hit the road. Srinagar's outskirts soon gave way to heavy traffic, which eased as we passed through the narrow roads of Bijbehara. Once out of the congestion, the scenery changed dramatically—a smooth road with the Lidder River flowing to our left, towering mountains to our right, and the captivating autumn foliage setting the perfect backdrop. We arrived in Pahalgam, marveling at the apple orchards and the cool, crisp weather.
Heevan Hotel is nestled amidst nature’s splendor, located right on the banks of the Lidder River. The views are breathtaking, though our booking didn’t include a river-facing room. As the temperature plummeted, we took some time to freshen up and prepare for a cozy evening with friends.
The hotel’s food, though delicious, was quite pricey—a simple dal cost Rs. 800, and non-vegetarian dishes were upwards of Rs. 1,000, with portions on the smaller side. After a light snack, we ventured out in search of more budget-friendly options and found Punjabi Rasoi, a vegetarian restaurant run by a Sikh family from Pahalgam. The dal was flavorful, though the dal tadka could have been better. The naan, however, was perfectly crispy and satisfying.
After dinner, we returned to the hotel, ready to unwind and get cozy for the night.
Day 2 Pahalgam
We started the day early with a morning walk along the Lidder River, heading toward Aru Valley. The temperature was a biting -5°C, so we bundled up as best as we could to stay warm. The bridge over the river was slippery with frozen moisture, but we crossed it carefully without any trouble. Our black car was coated with ice from the cold night, and some parts of the river were partially frozen.
The crisp morning air, free from pollution, and the serene surroundings created the perfect setting to reminisce about nostalgic memories. The peaceful atmosphere and the invigorating chill made the walk a delightful experience. We strolled 3 km in one direction before heading back.
A warm cup of tea awaited us upon our return. Kashmiri people have a deep love for bakery items, and their cupcakes are absolutely delicious. Our package included a morning buffet offering a variety of choices: traditional Kashmiri bakery items, South Indian dishes, English breakfast staples, and Punjabi parathas. Freshly made omelets were available on order, and the sausages were exceptional. It was the perfect start to a beautiful day.
After a hearty breakfast, we set out to explore the breathtaking valley, starting with Betab Valley, famously known as the filming location for the Hindi movie Betab. By 10:30 AM, the temperature had risen to a comfortable 11°C. Although the sun was shining, the sky remained partially cloudy. We packed our BBQ supplies, headed to the market to pick up fresh chicken and spices for marination, and began our journey by 11:30 AM towards Sheshnag, passing through Betab Valley.
Although we missed the turn to Betab Valley, the mesmerizing drive encouraged us to continue to Chandanwadi, the base of Sheshnag and the starting point of the pilgrimage to the Baba Amarnath Caves. Lacking the enthusiasm to take a horse ride to Sheshnag, we spent some time at Chandanwadi, surrounded by snow-capped mountains even during this off-season. With the Amarnath Yatra not in progress, the camping sites were deserted, offering us plenty of space to soak in the tranquility of nature. After spending half an hour there, we made our way back to Betab Valley.
Upon arrival, we learned that the entry fee was ₹100, and after confirming with the gatekeepers that BBQ was allowed as long as we didn’t litter or damage the grounds, we chose a quiet spot to set up. Nearby, a group of young men in their 20s was also grilling, and they kindly shared some of their burning coals with us, making it easier to start our BBQ. The day turned cold and windy, but the warmth of good company made it delightful.
Kulvinder Bhaji, an aficionado of old songs, led us in singing heartfelt melodies, creating a joyous atmosphere. Locals encouraged us to enjoy ourselves, adding to the festive vibe. The symphony of the Lidder River, the aroma of BBQ, and the classic tunes made us feel as though we were in a different world. Surprisingly, instead of stray dogs, we were joined by crows, whose antics became a source of entertainment. One crow, after having its portion snatched by another, chased it down until it reclaimed its share, much to our amusement.
The afternoon was truly unforgettable, filled with laughter, music, nature, and the simple joys of sharing food and experiences.
The reel-making trend is unstoppable—boys, girls, and even entire families were enthusiastically filming videos. It was amusing to watch them, especially as many danced without music, showing remarkable confidence. While this lifestyle may not be for everyone, it was entertaining to witness.
As the day wrapped up, we extinguished the fire and cleared up our BBQ setup, ensuring all waste was properly disposed of in the dustbin. While washing the BBQ grill, I accidentally dropped it into the river. The icy water deterred me from retrieving it, but fortunately, it got stuck a few meters downstream. A local laborer initially offered to help for a small fee but was stopped by his employer. Soon, a group of locals gathered, and one eventually agreed to retrieve the grill for a modest amount. After considerable effort, he stepped into the freezing water and returned it. Remarkably, he declined payment, gently placing the grill beside us and walking away. When we insisted, he finally accepted, though his kindness left a lasting impression. The gesture reminded us of the famed Kashmiri hospitality, which seems to be thriving once again.
As evening fell, we headed back to the Heevan Hotel. One of its highlights is the "Willow Café," known for its freshly baked bread and handmade pizzas. The café's ambiance, coupled with the scenic views of the Lidder River, made it an inviting spot to unwind. A warm cup of coffee or soup with a delicious pizza set the mood perfectly. As the winds grew colder, the café welcomed new guests—eight lively women in their 30s and 40s from the Radisson Hotel. Their chatter and laughter filled the room, adding vibrancy to the serene setting.
Later in the evening, we gathered in the hotel lobby for a round of Seep, a strategic card game that kept us entertained. Dinner plans led us out of the hotel to Paradise Hotel, a cozy and charming restaurant recommended for its Wazwan, a traditional Kashmiri feast. The meal, featuring a variety of flavorful non-vegetarian curries served with rice and chapatis, was exceptional. As the night grew colder, we returned to the hotel, satisfied and ready to relax.
Note: The host was gracious. Watching the sunset from the monastery was an unforgettable experience. Later, my son set up his camera at the Tabo helipad to capture the Milky Way and shooting stars, an experience made even more memorable by the 1°C temperature. That night, we enjoyed a cozy sleep in our mud hut, the only sound being the Spiti River’s gentle flow.
Day 3 Pahalgam
We woke up to a cold morning, though not as chilly as the day before—it was -1°C. The winds were calmer, and the forecast predicted snowfall. The cloud cover had slightly warmed the area, so despite the sub-zero temperature, it didn’t feel unbearably cold. A morning walk was inevitable, and today, the iron bridge was free of ice. Although parts of the car were still covered with frost, the Lidder River flowed steadily. Its water level was higher than the previous day, and the soothing sound of the current added to the tranquility.
A refreshing 6-kilometer morning walk in the pristine air was invigorating. Along the way, we reminisced about the golden days, sharing experiences and playfully teasing each other. That’s the beauty of being Sardars—we can joke at each other’s expense without taking offense. By the time we returned, it was 8:30 a.m., and a hot cup of tea paired with Kashmiri baked cupcakes was the perfect treat. Breakfast wasn’t as delectable as the previous day, though the Chana Bhaturas were outstanding. As usual, we had egg white omelets, but the sausages were disappointing—well below par.
We initially planned to visit the Martand Surya Mandir, about 50 kilometers from our base. However, plans don’t always work out. I, being the main culprit, received a call from a client about an online meeting scheduled for 10:30 a.m. Meanwhile, we explored Heevan Villas, located within walking distance. These villas are available for families, offering a private space to enjoy together. Naturally, we recorded a video to show our better halves for future planning—perhaps a trip during the spring season.
By the time we returned to our room, it was 10:20 a.m., and the others began preparing for the day’s activities. My meeting lasted about 30 minutes, and once it was over, I finally got ready after delaying everyone’s plans. By 11:30 a.m., we were all set to hit the scenic roads. This time, our destination was the beautiful Aru Valley.
The BBQ was bustling with activity once again. This time, Jaswinder Bhaji, Kulvinder Bhaji, and Aman decided to barbecue fish instead of chicken. The Lidder River is known for its amazing trout, and as seafood lovers, we were eager to try it. However, we couldn’t find any fish in the market. Fortunately, a helpful Sikh gentleman (it’s remarkable how we Sikhs seem to be everywhere and always willing to assist!) directed us to the Kashmir Government Fish Farm.
Located along the main road, the farm offers fresh fish straight from the source. When we arrived, the staff warmly greeted us and invited Aman and Kulvinder Bhaji to try their hand at catching the fish. Instead of a traditional pond, the farm utilizes a stream of the Lidder River for trout farming. The fish was quite affordable at just ₹500 per kilogram, and the staff kindly offered to clean and thoroughly cut it for us, making preparation much easier.
With everything ready, we were now set to head to Aru Valley.
The drive to Aru Valley was nothing short of breathtaking. On our left, the Lidder River flowed gracefully, while the mountains towered over the right. Maple and pine trees lined the riverside, and horses and ponies grazed peacefully in the valley. As we cruised along, old songs filled the car, adding a nostalgic charm to the scenic journey.
When we reached Aru Valley, it was as beautiful as expected. While it’s lush green in spring, visiting during the fall meant greenery was out of the question. (Pro tip: if you’re prone to seasonal depression, you might want to avoid Kashmir in fall!) Entry tickets were required, but we weren’t keen on going deep into the valley this time. Instead, we chose to explore some off-road spots by the Lidder River, where we could relax and enjoy the serene surroundings.
The weather grew colder as the wind picked up, but that didn’t dampen our spirits. True to their fun-loving nature, we Punjabis struck up conversations and shared laughs with a group of young men from Ludhiana we met there. It was time to set up the BBQ, but unlike the previous day, we didn’t have the advantage of pre-lit coals. Everything had to be done from scratch, and the windy conditions made it quite a challenge. After significant effort from Jaswinder Bhaji and Kulvinder Bhaji, the BBQ was finally ready, and I took charge of ensuring the coals stayed warm.
Meanwhile, Kulvinder Bhaji prepared the fish marinade, and soon the grilling began. We also had girda—a delicious Kashmiri bread we had picked up from the market—which Jaswinder Bhaji warmed perfectly over the coals. The moment was magical: the warmth of the BBQ, the perfectly grilled fish, the soft girda, and the melodies of Kulvinder Bhaji’s singing, accompanied by all of us. Aman, as usual, was busy capturing every moment on camera, excitedly documenting the experience while still hoping for snowfall.
Another group of Punjabi boys, this time from Jammu, arrived at the spot to set up their campsite. While they prepared their tents, we continued to enjoy our songs, the freshly grilled fish, and the soothing sounds of the flowing river and rustling wind. As we wrapped up, we passed on our lit coals and reserves to the Jammu boys, exchanged a few friendly words, and cleaned up thoroughly. After washing our dishes and packing our waste for proper disposal, we headed back to the hotel.
By around 5 p.m., we were near the hotel and decided to stop at a nearby apple orchard in search of fresh apples. However, since it wasn’t apple season, whatever we found was from storage. Exhausted from the day’s activities, most of us—except for the drivers—opted to take a nap and freshen up before the evening.
After driving for about 50 minutes in search of a good orchard, we finally found the perfect spot and began shopping for apples. They had both Fuji and Golden varieties. Fuji apples were fresh, juicy, and firm, with a balanced flavor—neither too sweet nor too tart. Golden apples, on the other hand, were softer and sweetly delicious. We got them neatly packed, along with some apple chutney made by the orchard owners, which was so incredible that I later had to call them after returning home to order more. We also purchased black honey, sourced from forest bees, which was equally delightful, as well as high-quality apple cider.
It’s heartwarming to see Kashmir returning to its golden days of hospitality. The orchard owners extended their warmth by offering us tea, snacks, kahwa, and even an invitation to spend the night at their home. Times are truly changing for the better. After spending about an hour there, we headed back to our hotel.
For dinner, we once again opted for Wazwan, as it was just too delicious to pass up. Pahalgam was beginning to prepare for snowfall, and more tourists were arriving. The same restaurant where we had dined alone the previous night was now bustling with every table occupied. A local family sat nearby, enjoying a meal together, and it was lovely to see the girls in their group more jubilant and carefree than the boys—such a refreshing sight. Dinner was, once again, absolutely delightful. We returned to the hotel to relax, still hoping for snowfall overnight, but luck wasn’t on our side.
Day 4 Pahalgam - Jalandhar - Mohali (562 Kms)
It was time to head back home. We left the hotel around 6 a.m., requesting the staff to pack our breakfast before settling the bills. The drive began in darkness, well before sunrise, as we made our way through the most magnificent scenery—orchards, rivers, maple trees, and fallen leaves—with no light but the moon to guide us. The temperature was around -1°C, and the playlist of melodious songs added magic to the journey.
As daylight broke, we approached the tunnel, passing by closed shops and bakeries. Unfortunately, this meant we couldn’t bring back any girda. After crossing the tunnel, we stopped for a tea break around 8:30 a.m. The tea was amazing, and we enjoyed it with the packed breakfast before continuing on our way home.
Just a note on hotel:
Heevan Hotel is beautifully nestled in the lap of nature, right on the shores of the Lidder River—a location that truly takes your breath away. Unfortunately, the resort's management seems determined to turn this dream setting into a challenging experience. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the issues we faced:
Areas for Improvement:
Bathroom Design: The toilet area is extremely cramped, with barely any legroom. If the wall is on the left of the toilet seat, using the nozzle becomes an impractical task.
Bathtub Placement: While the inclusion of a bathtub might sound luxurious, the lack of proper standing space makes it more of a hindrance than a perk. Removing it would vastly improve the functionality of the space.
Room Size and Comfort: The rooms are quite small, with no king-size beds featuring spring mattresses. This makes getting a good night's sleep difficult.
Lighting: The room lighting is inadequate, making the space feel dim and uninviting.
Sound Insulation: The walls are paper-thin. If your neighbors are hosting a party, expect a sleepless night.
Entertainment Issues: The Tata Sky subscription was expired, leaving no entertainment options.
Cleanliness: The bed sheets were not as clean as they should have been.
Room Entry Design: There’s a bump at the entrance of the room, which can easily trip first-time visitors.
Food Pricing: The food is exorbitantly priced.
Breakfast Quality: The breakfast included stored fruits, and overall quality did not meet expectations.
Packed Food: On the day of checkout, we requested an early morning packed meal. What we received was highly disappointing—a rotten apple, a rotten banana, and a sandwich with spoiled cheese. None of it was edible.
Positives:
Stunning Location: The hotel’s setting by the Lidder River is undeniably picturesque. Friendly Staff: The staff members are courteous and welcoming. Willow Café: The café is delightful, offering freshly baked bread and a pleasant atmosphere. While the hotel’s location and staff are commendable, the overall experience fell short due to the numerous inconveniences. Improvements in room design, cleanliness, food quality, and basic amenities could make this property truly exceptional.
The drive from Udhampur to Lakhanpur is truly scenic, with little traffic and lush greenery along the way. There are some great hotels to stop at, but a stop at Lakhanpur is essential. It’s famous for its Dal Laddus, bread pakodas, mirchi pakodas, and tea—such a delightful combination!
After a refreshing break, it was time to hit the road again. The temperature had risen to 22°C—a dramatic shift from the -1°C we had earlier experienced. With it being daytime, taking the route through Jalandhar was the better choice. The drive from Jalandhar to Ropar was smooth, with wide roads perfect for cruising. Lunch in Balachaur was quite decent. By 6 p.m., after dropping everyone off, I finally reached home.
It was a wonderful journey, one that will forever be etched in the Boulevard of Golden Memories.
